Burmese Jews
The Tribe That Vanished
Jews came to Burma (now Myanmar) with the British colonizers in the mid-19th century. First came the Jewish army officers, and then businessmen followed.
A friendly Burmese environment allowed the Jewish community to flourish. Jewish businessmen were conducting trade deals through the newly erected port of Rangoon (now called Yangon), and established a synagogue, a school, stores, and restaurants with kosher food. Regarded almost as high as the Englishmen, Jews in Rangoon were allowed to hold many high and prestigious positions. In the early 20th century, mayors of both Rangoon and Pathein were Jewish. Living peacefully with their Muslim, Buddhist, Hindu, and Christian neighbors, Jews in Burma never had conflicts of religious or ethnical nature.
It all ended abruptly with World War II, when the Japanese invaded Burma. Though the Japanese weren’t as antisemitic as their German allies, they regarded Jews in Burma as British sympathizers and infiltrators, which forced most Jews to leave the country.
After the war was over, only a few hundred out of 2,500 Jewish residents of Rangoon decided to come back. Upon their return, they found their businesses are gone and their houses looted. The synagogue survived only by a miracle.
The second hard blow happened in 1962 when the socialist coup d’etat led by General Ne Win took place, followed by the rise of nationalism. Most of the remaining Jews decided to leave the country. The last Burmese rabbi left Burma for Israel in 1969.
Today only one Burmese Jewish family is still remaining in Yangon. Many others assimilated and became Buddhists or Christians through marriages. The rest took the opportunity to establish themselves in different parts of the globe once it became possible to leave the country and a long period of closed borders had ceased. Though they are still Burmese citizens, Yangon is not their principal place of residence.
The once prosperous and vibrant Jewish community of Burma is now gone. Its only hope for revival is Jewish expats from the West that are once again coming to Yangon for new business opportunities.
Welcome to 'Musmeah Yeshua' – a synagogue built in 1896 that stands in the now Muslim neighborhood of Yangon, Myanmar, a Buddhist country. It was once a busy place of worship for Burmese Jews, and today it is practically a museum, a memory of the once flourishing Jewish community of 2,500 people.
Aron Kodesh (or Hekhal) is usually a closet-sized receptacle with Torah scrolls. In Jewish tradition, wealthy families boast lavishly decorated scrolls that they keep at a synagogue. In 'Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue' Aron Kodesh is a whole room that once hosted over 120 Torah scrolls. Today only two sacred scrolls remain in Burma as all the Jews left the country and took their Torahs with them.
Aslam, a Muslim, has been helping in taking care of the synagogue for over 20 years. Jews in Burma never had conflicts of religious nature with their Muslim neighbors. Except for one time: During the Suez Crisis, protestors tried to burn down the synagogue in their rage against Israel. But it was local Muslims who came out to the street and protected the synagogue from the madmen.
But despite the seemingly peaceful coexistence of all religions, it's not all smooth sailing in Burma. All over the country, there are rising tensions between the Muslim minority and the Buddhist majority. Often Buddhist monks walk in processions through Muslim quarters to demonstrate that they hold power in the country.
The founders of the synagogue were Baghdadi Jews, and the synagogue was built in the traditional Baghdadi style, where families sit together, facing each other rather than Jerusalem. For over 35 years, the synagogue was taken care of by Moses Samuels, who died in 2015. Rain or shine, he was there on Shabbat, waiting for a minyan (or rather for a miracle) – a congregation of 10 Jewish men to make a prayer. His motto was "a Jew should never be alone on his holy days". Now his son, Sammy, is taking care of the synagogue.
This neighborhood used to be called Jew-town. Nowadays, there are no Jews left in the area, with only a few original houses left standing. The Jewish family that built this house left the country long ago.
This backyard saw many celebrations of Shabbat and Jewish holidays. In this neighborhood, Jews used to own stores and restaurants, and a Jewish school was standing right behind this yard.
The last Jews of Burma – Sammy Samuels, his wife Zahava, and his sisters Channa and Dinah lighting Shabbat candles at home. Samuel's family is the only Jewish family still living in Burma. Sammy and Zahava's wedding was the first Jewish wedding in Burma in 27 years.
There was a time when the local Jewish community had the luxury to split into two because of a theological and racial dispute between Baghdadi Jews and Bene Israel. A second house for prayers, called 'Beth El', was established in this area but is now gone since no one is left to serve.
A Jewish star of David is crowning this old wooden house built in the 1950s. But don't be surprised to find Jewish symbols in different parts of Yangon – it is usually just part of the decoration, without any meaning.
Yangon's Jewish cemetery is now closed for burials. It is home to 679 graves. There are different sections for Ashkenazi and Baghdadi Jews – they lived apart and were buried apart. The earliest grave is dated 1876; the last burial occurred in 1979. Due to the high real-estate demand in a quickly developing Yangon, there is fear of it being swallowed up by the rising condo buildings.
Christina is Burmese, born Buddhist, but unofficially converted to Judaism after dating a Burmese Jew (who is now practicing Buddhism). Christina lived in Israel for over three years and is often a guest at local Jewish gatherings. She celebrates Jewish holidays, including her favorite of all – Hanukkah, the Holiday of Light, and Miracles.